Metals & care
Choosing a metal, and keeping the detail crisp
The metal you choose affects how your knotwork looks on day one and how it will look in twenty years.
| Metal | Look | For knotwork detail | Resizing | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 9ct gold | Paler yellow, white or rose | Harder than higher carats, holds detail well | Yes | 37.5% gold; alloy metals can occasionally cause skin reactions |
| 14ct / 18ct gold | Richer colour | Softer, so relief wears a little faster | Yes | 18ct is 75% gold; the most traditional fine-jewellery choice in the UK |
| White gold | Bright white (usually rhodium plated) | As per its carat | Yes | Plating wears and needs periodic renewal; replating can fill fine recesses |
| Platinum | Naturally white, grey patina with wear | Metal displaces rather than wears away; detail softens but weight stays | Yes, specialist | Dense and heavy; hypoallergenic for most people |
| Palladium | Naturally white, slightly greyer than platinum | Good | Yes, specialist | Lighter than platinum; fewer workshops handle it |
| Sterling silver | Bright white, tarnishes | Soft; detail wears fastest | Yes | Often oxidised to highlight knots; lower cost; tarnish needs attention |
| Titanium | Grey, very light | Tough surface, usually machined or laser-cut patterns | Generally no | Hypoallergenic; can be cut off in emergencies |
| Tungsten carbide / ceramic | Dark grey, black or polished | Very scratch resistant; patterns usually etched or inlaid | No | Brittle under sharp impact; cannot be resized |
Hallmarking in the UK
In the UK, gold, silver, platinum and palladium items above certain exemption weights must be hallmarked by one of the independent assay offices (London, Birmingham, Sheffield or Edinburgh) before being sold as those metals. A hallmark confirms the metal's fineness. Ireland has its own assay office at Dublin Castle. If you're buying a precious-metal ring, it is reasonable to ask about hallmarking.
Two-tone and mixed-metal bands
Using two colours of gold, or gold with platinum, makes knot strands pop. These rings are often made by joining separate components or by inlay, which can make resizing and repair more complex. Mixing a hard metal with a much softer one can also lead to uneven wear, where the softer part sinks slightly over time.
Everyday care
- Take it off for heavy work: gardening, gym weights, DIY and cleaning with harsh chemicals all accelerate wear or damage.
- Avoid chlorine: pool and bleach chlorine can damage some gold alloys over time.
- Put it on last: after hand cream, lotions and hairspray, which build up in the knot recesses.
- Store it separately: harder gems and rings scratch softer metal.
Cleaning knotwork at home
- Soak for 10 to 15 minutes in warm water with a few drops of mild washing-up liquid.
- Brush gently with a soft toothbrush, working along the lines of the pattern.
- Rinse (with the plug in!) and dry with a lint-free cloth.
Avoid toothpaste and abrasive powders, which scratch. Be cautious with ultrasonic cleaners: they are fine for many solid metal rings but can loosen stones and strip oxidised finishes.
Oxidised patterns
Darkened recesses are a surface treatment, not a permanent colour. Polishing cloths impregnated with cleaner will lift the darkening on the areas you rub. Gentle soap-and-water cleaning keeps it longest; a jeweller can re-oxidise if needed.
Professional check-ups
An occasional check by a jeweller is worthwhile, especially for stone-set rings. Ask for a light clean rather than a heavy polish, since each machine polish removes a little metal and softens relief. For worn detail, ask whether hand recutting is possible for your design.